Eran Tibi’s second London venture is a sexy take on Tel Aviv’s cooking. Read on for our review of Kapara.
If you’re reading this, it’s probably because you’ve got one eye on the London dining scene. And, if that’s the case, you’ve probably eaten at Bala Baya, the energetic, cult-followed Israeli restaurant by chef Eran Tibi.
That was his first London venture, opened after graduating from Le Cordon Bleu cutting his teeth with Ottolenghi, and a roaring success.
Kapara is his second. It draws on much of the same themes – experience is as important as food to Tibi and he likes to impress. The food is also drawn from the cooking of Tel Aviv. Like Bala Baya, and in spite of being open only about a month now, it’s also extremely hyped.
We went down to see what all the fuss is about.
Kapara – The Full Review
The Food
We sat down with a light cocktail and food started to hit the table almost immediately.
Of course, there was an interim period where we looked at the menu, mused over whether to get a platter or save space for more small plates. But such is the top service at Kapara that as soon as we’d ordered our cold meze were basically in front of us.
First up was a bowl of hummus with some small, doughy flatbread to drag through it. Kapara does not miss a chance to pimp out a dish, this hummus being no exception. As much as half the bowl was given over to sumac and stewed aubergine that gets mixed up with all the dipping and becomes some really high-level hybrid dip.
Another opportunity for Kapara to flash their talent was with a dish of prawn baklava. Yep, you read that correctly. The crispy shredded-wheat-like baklava is wrapped around the body of a sizable prawn, presumably deep fried and glazed with honey and pistachio.
If it sounds weird, it’s because it is. Lots about Kapara is pretty unconventional. Take their recurring sexual themes for instance – puns that feel a lot like the low hanging fruit seized upon by that overtly camp guy at a party who winks at you as he refers to your cheesy balls.
We wonder for a while if that’s the sort of guy Eran Tibi is.
Cheesy balls actually are an item on the menu here, as are salty nuts – both skipped over by our table in favour of an ox-heart tartare that should not be missed. Touched with intermittent cubes of Middle-Eastern fruit, like the baklava prawns, it was another moment where Kapara’s unconventional approach scores big points.
Cod Chops weren’t such a big hit with us. If you’re looking for some fish, we’d say you’re best off going with the ceviche. Not a traditional Israeli dish but who cares. They execute it with such care and skill they deserve a pat on the back from the Peruvians.
Between a choice of Sticky Treat (wink) or Gramps Cigar we chose the latter. It came to the table with a box of matches (you don’t actually need to light the cigar) that undresses little pictures of people with each match you pull out.
The Drink
We began with a Noty Noty to freshen the palate. It’s a gin based drink through which notes of grapefruit and herb linger. That’s then topped off with soda to make for a drink that goes down fast and begs more rounds.
As the food came out, we went for a bottle of white. Our waiter recommended something we’d not heard of before with a confidence that we could only follow. If you’re lost for what to drink, we guess you’d only need to do the same to get a solid recommendation.
The Look
Kapara’s design matches its hip vibes. The space is dark – admittedly in a very sexy way. Plush velveteen furniture and booth tabling create an added level of plush.
Downstairs in the bathroom you’ll notice the sexual themes continued on the tiling’s phallic and vaginal patterns.
Upstairs is dominated by a long bar bedecked by chandeliers. Gold trims in places adding flavours of wealth to those sexy vibes. The whole thing together results in a place that makes you feel cool to be in, and an ideal setting for a pre-night out dinner.
Final Thoughts
Kapara is not the sort of place you want to take your granny. Not, actually, for the innuendo rich menu or sexual nods to this and that, but because it feels very young.
The music, the style of the place and the drinks all fell geared towards getting you drunk and loose – warming you up for a big night out in Soho.
You don’t have to play it that way. The food is good enough for you to come for that alone. It just slightly feels like you might be missing out on some fun if that’s your sole reason for coming.
Kapara: Practical Information and Map
Price: ££
Address: James Court, Manette St, London W1D 4AL
Map
Review 4 / 5
